Understanding the Need for Clipping
In the wild, horses naturally grow a thicker and longer coat during the winter months. This luxuriant coat serves two crucial purposes. Firstly, it provides an essential layer of protection from the cold weather conditions, and secondly, it compensates for the decrease in the quality and quantity of available food.
The horse’s winter coat is a fantastic example of nature’s foresight, ensuring the horse can thrive even amidst harsh winters. As the season changes though, this coat is naturally shed in spring, making way for a lighter coat suited for the warmer weather.
However, when horses are domesticated, their natural cycle experiences a shift. Horses, under the care of humans, are provided with necessary food and shelter, ensuring their survival even during harsh winter months. While humans can simulate the food environment, the horses’ biological response to cooler weather – growing a winter coat – still carries on unchanged.
The Implications of Domestication on a Horse’s Coat
Under domestication, horses still grow their winter coat, providing an additional, nature-made layer of warmth. But is this necessary while living in controlled conditions? Especially when quality winter feed, adequate shelter, and sometimes even horse clothing are provided?
This situation presents us with the need for clipping a horse’s winter coat. Clipping and trimming become vital parts of domesticated horses’ grooming process, particularly during autumn and spring—the periods when horses naturally change their coats to match the incoming season. These practices help maintain the neatness and health of the horse’s coat, providing comfort and facilitating better monitoring of the horse’s bodily condition.
In short, while the wild counterparts continue following nature’s grooming cycle, our domesticated friends need a little assistance in keeping up with their grooming needs. That’s where human intervention in the form of clipping and trimming comes in handy for the well-being and comfort of domesticated horses.
The Impact of Environment and Activity Level on a Horse’s Coat
Horses living out in the open, grazing at their leisure, find the extra coverage of their winter coat beneficial. This thick and greasy layer serves as an essential shield against the varying elements. As these horses take minimal exercise out of necessity or inclination, they don’t experience discomfort from sweating or body heat loss.
Disadvantages of a Thick Coat for Active, Stabled Horses
However, for stabled and working horses, sporting a thick coat can turn into more of a hindrance than a benefit. Imagine trying to perform strenuous physical work while wearing a fur coat; one would inevitably sweat profusely and tire easily. The same applies to horses. It’s not reasonable to expect them to maintain high levels of activity, and keep their overall health in peak condition, whilst donned in their own natural ‘fur coat.’
Routine grooming tends to become challenging with such a thick coat, which may eventually result in clogged pores due to waste products not being adequately cleared from the skin. The process of drying the horse after work can become a hefty and time-consuming task, especially when exposed to rain or snow. This situation often leads to the horse catching a chill. This entire cluster of problems finds its solution in one grooming practice – clipping.
Importance of Appropriate Covering for Clipped Horses
Yet, it’s important to note that a clipped horse requires compensation for the lost natural protection. Without their coat, horses are more prone to get chills, which can detrimentally impact their health. In such cases, horse owners must resort to suitable horse ‘clothing’ or ‘rugs’ to mimic the warmth that their natural coat would’ve provided. The number of rugs used is usually determined based on the prevailing temperature, enabling the owner to regulate the horse’s protection level as the weather dictates.
Optimal Times for Horse Clipping
The arrival of a horse’s winter coat often dictates when the initial round of clipping is due. Under normal circumstances, the thick winter coat is fully established by October or November, making it an ideal time for the first clipping engagement.
Scheduling Clipping Sessions
It’s vital to debunk a common misconception that clipping post-New Year’s Day would somehow ruin a horse’s summer coat. There’s no evidence to support this notion, thus rendering it unfounded. In reality, the frequency of clipping sessions often depends on the rate at which the horse’s hair grows back. It could vary from twice to multiple times during the winter season.
The appearance of the lighter summer coat, usually noticeable around April or May, serves as a signal that the clipping season is nearing its end. However, there’s seldom a need for clipping to continue far into the warmer months.
Responsiveness of a Horse’s Coat to Weather Changes
A remarkable feature of a horse’s coat is its quick response to changing temperatures. Therefore, the precise dates for the commencement and conclusion of the clipping season can’t be dictated by the calendar. Instead, those decisions lean heavily on the prevailing weather conditions. This adjustment helps to ensure that the essential act of clipping remains in sync with the necessities of a horse’s natural cycle and its overall well-being.
Types of Horse Clips
There are various types of horse clips to suit differing purposes, ranging from horses doing light work at slow paces to those engaging in intense physical activity during the winter season.
Light Work: Full Trace Clip and Small Trace Clip
For horses or ponies engaged in light work at slower paces, either the Full Trace Clip or the Small Trace Clip is typically employed. In both cases, the hair is removed from the belly, the upper parts of the legs (from the middle of the forearm and gaskins to approximately the trace height of a cart harness), and the mane, while the tail is left intact. Often, the hair on the underside of the neck and face is also clipped out.
Light Work: Blanket Clip
When a horse is doing light work, a Blanket Clip may be more appropriate. The hair is removed only from the neck and belly, leaving a patch on the body that corresponds in size to the area of a horse blanket. This clip makes it easier to keep the horse clean without having to keep it rugged up all the time. It can be useful when the horse spends part of the day turned out.
Hard Work: Full Clip
For horses engaged in intense physical activity during winter months, a Full Clip is commonly used. As the name suggests, the entire body, legs, and head are clipped, leaving only the mane, tail, and forelock (unless it’s already “hogged” or clipped short).
Hard Work: Hunter Clip
The Hunter Clip is a variation of the Full Clip. The primary difference is that the legs are only partially clipped, similar to the Trace Clip, and a “saddle patch” is left on the back by clipping around the saddle. Often, horses are clipped completely the first time, with the Hunter Clip used for subsequent clippings, particularly for fine-coated animals.
Pros and Cons of Leaving the Legs
There are arguments for and against leaving hair on a horse’s legs:
For:
- Protection from cold and potential thorns
- Hair on the back of the fetlock joints acts as a drain for sweat and moisture, preventing cracked heels by keeping the area dry
Against:
- Leg hair doesn’t provide complete protection from thorns, and removing thorns is easier without long hair
- The “drain” reasoning doesn’t hold as undipped horses sometimes suffer from cracked heels too, and in a stabled horse, the legs must be dried regardless of hair length
Pros and Cons of Saddle-Patch
The advantages and disadvantages of retaining a saddle patch include:
For:
- Prevention of saddle galls
- Avoids irritation from short hairs forced into the back by the rider’s weight
- A cold saddle on a clipped back can be uncomfortable for the horse and may cause bucking
Against:
- Saddle injuries are caused by friction due to loose girthing, bad riding, or ill-fitting saddles, so hair may not prevent galling
- The issue of irritation from short hairs isn’t prevalent in practice
- Using a cold saddle can be mitigated by loosely saddling up a few minutes before mounting
- A saddle patch can cause significant sweating on the back, increasing the risk of chills if not properly dried, and drying the back is additional work that can be avoided by clipping
In summary, choosing between a Full Clip and a Hunter Clip largely boils down to personal preference.
Clipping Equipment
When it comes to horse clipping equipment, hand clippers and electric clippers each have their specific uses and advantages.
Hand Clippers: For Mane and Fetlocks
Hand clippers can be utilized for the specific tasks of “hogging” a mane or trimming the hair around the horse’s fetlocks. These clippers allow for convenience and precision when dealing with these smaller areas and deliver a clean, even cut.
Electric Clippers: For Body Hair
For clipping the body hair of a horse, electric clippers are generally used. These devices cover larger areas faster than hand clippers and are essential for thorough, efficient grooming.
Blade Sharpness and Equipment Maintenance
Regardless of the type of clippers used, it is crucial that the blades are sharp, and the equipment is well maintained. This ensures not only the effectiveness of the clipping but also the safety of the horse. Damaged or blunt blades can potentially hurt the horse, causing discomfort or even injuries. Therefore, it is imperative to regularly check the condition of your clippers and replace or sharpen the blades as necessary.
Noise Considerations
When purchasing electric clippers, it might be useful to consider a quieter model. Horses can be sensitive to loud noises, and a noisy clipper might frighten or stress the animal. By selecting a device that produces minimal noise, you can reduce the risk of causing anxiety and ensure a more pleasant clipping experience for both the horse and the user.
Clipping Operation
The process of clipping a horse requires careful planning and execution. Several factors must be considered to ensure a smooth, stress-free experience for both the horse and the handler.
Choose a Mild Day
It is essential to select a mild day for clipping, as harsh, cold weather is not ideal for removing the horse’s natural overcoat. Additionally, avoid clipping a horse if it’s feeling under the weather or in any other way unwell. Even though the horse will be rugged up after the clipping, it needs some time to acclimate to the change.
Prepare Equipment and Workspace
Before starting the clipping process, double-check that everything is in order and ready to go, without any hitches. Clippers should be sharp, clean, and oiled at regular intervals throughout the clipping. Blunt blades can lead to hard work, subpar results, and discomfort for the horse. A well-prepared workspace can ensure smooth operation, leading to better outcomes.
Clean the Horse
Prior to clipping, it’s crucial to ensure that the horse is thoroughly clean. Dirt and grime can quickly blunt the clippers, leading to problems during clipping. Properly groom the horse beforehand to preserve the longevity and effectiveness of your equipment.
Allocate Sufficient Time
Ensure you have allocated enough time to complete the clipping process without rushing. Rushing can lead to mistakes, stress for the horse, and a less-than-desirable outcome. By setting aside the appropriate amount of time, you can remain calm and focused, allowing for a more successful and efficient clipping experience.
Handling Horse Apprehension during Clipping
Clipping can sometimes make horses anxious, and it’s not uncommon to encounter resistance. However, dealing with such situations calmly and efficiently can ensure a pleasant experience for both the horse and the operator.
Starting off Quietly
Always maintain a calm and quiet demeanor when starting the clipping process. Treat the horse as if everything is normal and avoid unnecessary restraints. Control is crucial, and using a bridle can often give you better command, unless the horse is exceptionally calm and doesn’t require it.
The Use of a “Twitch”
Some horses show signs of discomfort while being clipped, and in these cases, a “twitch” could be a helpful tool. A twitch is a device designed to distract a horse from an unpleasant operation, such as clipping.
How a Twitch Works
A twitch applies pressure on the horse’s muzzle, a particularly sensitive part, to distract it from what might otherwise feel uncomfortable.
How to Use a Twitch
To create a twitch, you need a round stick (like a broomstick or axe handle) about 50-60cm (18-24″) long with a piece of rope threaded through a hole at the end. You then form the rope into a loop big enough to fit over the horse’s upper lip and tip of the nose. Give the stick a turn or two to apply pressure. The twitch should be left on only as long as necessary and be sure to rub the nose afterward to restore circulation.
While a twitch can be beneficial when clipping sensitive areas on an otherwise calm horse, it’s important to note that it should be used thoughtfully and respectfully.
Calling the Vet
If a horse violently objects to being clipped, it’s best to call in a vet. The vet can administer a sedative injection to calm down the horse. Modern tranquilizing drugs for horses are very effective and can usually make even the most anxious horse quiet enough for a safe and manageable clipping process, without causing harm to the horse or the handler.
Optimal Techniques for Horse Clipping
When it comes to clipping horses, each individual may have a different starting point. Some may begin at the neck, others may favor the hindquarters, with the head generally being left until last. For a smooth and pleasant clipping process, proper technique, coupled with understanding of the horse’s anatomy, is indispensable.
The Clipping Process
Start the process by getting the blades moving steadily before you apply them to the horse’s coat. Ensure you’re moving against the lay of the hair, applying even pressure to avoid creating ridges. With little practice, you can evenly trim the broader expanses of the coat.
Maneuvering Tricky Areas
“Corners” and angles around bones require a bit more finesse. Looser skin, such as where the elbows meet the body, should be pulled taut for easier clipping. At the crest, care should be taken not to clip into the mane – it’s advisable to gradually edge the coat off for a smooth finish, particularly when the mane isn’t “hogged”.
Working Around Delicate Areas
Approach the head with extra care, given the proximity of the bones to the surface. Pay special attention to the roots of the forelock to avoid cutting too much hair. The muzzle will have whiskers or “feelers” and although some may be tempted to remove these to ease the process, they should actually be preserved. Skillful clipping around these whiskers is key.
Trimming the Ears
When it comes to the ears, you can manage without much difficulty by holding them flat in your free hand and guiding the blades down from their tips. Avoid clipping inside – simply fold them and run the clippers along the edges.
Stylizing with Trace and Hunter Clips
In specific styles such as the Trace and Hunter Clips, slant the boundary line of the remaining hair upwards and forwards for a neat appearance. For added tidiness, lightly trim the long feathering at the backs of the legs, blending the hair around to avoid leaving any conspicuous ridge.
Leaving a Saddle Patch in the Hunter Clip
If you wish to leave a saddle patch when employing the Hunter Clip, the horse must be saddled up to mark the boundary. After you’ve clipped around the saddle to attain the right shape, remove the saddle and cut the patch a little smaller so it doesn’t show when the horse is saddled.
Finally, after you’ve completed the entire operation, brush the horse down and rug it immediately. To compensate for the loss of warmth, it’s advisable to increase the horse’s food ration slightly and provide more bedding for a few days post-clipping.
Trimming
Trimming represents the art of enhancing a horse’s aesthetic presence, predominantly by modifying unruly or thick hair and feathers. This often involves adjusting the mane and tail, especially when they exhibit uneven growth patterns. Generally performed with scissors, a comb, and even by hand for pulling out longer, unwanted strands, trimming is an exceptional skill that demands time, patience, and diligent practice. Even the most seasoned hands should exercise extreme caution, as hasty trimming can lead to unsatisfactory outcomes.
Trimming the Legs
When it comes to the legs, the long coarse hair or feathers should be trimmed down with the combination of a comb and scissors, ultimately leaving a smooth, even finish. The key to achieving an optimal appearance is to maintain a steady pace, removing only a small amount of hair at a time as you can’t undo an overly enthusiastic trim and regrowth takes considerable time.
Refining the Mane
Occasionally, the mane requires “levelling” – a process of removing hairs that fall unevenly or grow longer than the rest, creating an untidy semblance. This calls for methodically pulling out only a couple of hairs at a single time.
The traditional practice of “hogging” the mane, or shaving it off entirely, has thankfully become less common. Only very few horses appear to benefit from a mane trim – predominantly those growing a sparse, unsuitable one. However, the absence of a mane may accentuate undesirable traits, such as a “ewe neck,” often better hidden beneath a full mane.
Maintaining the mane neatly on one side, typically the offside as per custom, is a key aspect of grooming, achievable by simply using a water-dampened brush. For more stubborn manes, “laying” by plaiting can aid in keeping them well-groomed. In a stable setting, the number of plaits doesn’t matter, but when prepping for shows, creating more than six plaits is usually frowned upon. Remember to undo plaits after a single day to prevent hair damage.
Grooming the Tail
Clippers are never an option when grooming the tail; it’s best to use scissors or specialized tail shears. The length of the tail depends on personal preference and the horse’s comfort. Often the tail is “banged” or shortened to a little below the hocks when the horse is in motion. When cutting the tail, assess the desired length, then cut in a manner that creates a slight downward and backward slope, with the horse-side hair being somewhat shorter.
The task of “pulling” the tail, or neatening it at the root, necessitates a gradual, cautious approach to avoid soreness. This involves selectively removing longer hairs from the sides while maintaining the mane on the outer surface. However, do note that excessive tail-pulling can leave horses with nearly bare dock-tails – a practice less than favorable. An alternative to this is good grooming, which can keep the tail tidy, and more importantly, the horse happier. The bushy tail is a horse’s natural weather-protector, especially under harsh conditions, and its primary defense against bothersome insects during warmer months.
Closing Thoughts
In the equestrian world, attention is often over-focused on appearance, often overlooking the wellbeing of these majestic creatures themselves. A horse’s health and happiness should always be the top priority – proper feeding, grooming and general care should come first. After all, when your horse is truly healthy, its appearance will naturally radiate true beauty without any need for excessive aesthetic modifications.
